DECONSTRUCTED GARMENTS

Get Set. Ready--PARIS FASHION WEEK!

I know New York Fashion Week is just a few days away. But readers, the heat is killing me. I arrived and New York City is a furnace. It makes me miss Paris. So I realized that I haven't shown you readers my little spot in the City of Light! But news first.

I stopped in Places des Vosges, at the Issey Miyake office on Monday and picked up a little bit of delight in a brown envelope. Here is the first invitation for Paris Fashion Week S/S 10 season!!!!!!

I love Miyake and have never missed a show.

Now on to the tour!

I live in La Butte-aux-Cailles, a lovely little quarter in the 13th arrondissement. Here's my building.

It's a tiny one bedroom but full of light and it has the most luxurious wooden floors. Out of this window below, I can also see the Eiffel Tower.

Here is my kitchen, full of light and there are roses blooming on the balcony.
 

Cathy Horyn on "The September Issue"

Just in folks, from Cathy Horyn! On characterizing the Vogue editorial team: "Andre Leon Talley is OTT; his feet never seem to touch the ground." Amen.

Read the rest of the interview at "On the Runway."

 I am in a cab, on the way to airport picking up clothing and will be heading to the airport--destination NYC!

The HOT Artificial Sneaker

Be still my sneaker obsessed heart. From The String Republic and B-Sided comes...

Seeing Angelo Van Mol's Vision of Tibet

I finally got a chance to catch up with Angelo Van Mol, currently studying at the Antwerp Academy.  I asked him about his most recent collection. Van Mol explained that he was inspired by the richness of traditional garbs worn by Tibetan monks and sought to reinterpret that inspiration in a mix of formal/sports/ethnic influences.

It was this very vest that inspired my interest in Van Mol. It is bold, but not flamboyant. This is not the loud, vibrating world of Alexander McQueen but rather the calm and textured work of Dries Van Noten. It is young and without darkness. There is extreme enchantment in Van Mol's work that captures the vitality and immense faith of youth.

What complexities in ideas! What strong vision of cut and perfect awareness of colour and the kean nature of visual stimulation and proportionality. I admire his approach to take the influences that are centuries old and retell those ideas in modern fabric and lovely detailed work.

Van Mol obtained fabrics from Schoeller ag, the Swiss producer of hi-tech sportswear and was supported in part by sponsorship from ZAHIA. However, the labor-intensive and intricate collection was the results of much love and support from his family and friends. Van Mol recalls: "I was lucky enough to have had a loving sister and mom embroidering 7 months non stop and all my friends when ever they had time to help."

I was told by an acquaintance that Van Mol's work seem to be a study of a journey but I disagree. I think that what Van Mol very successfully gives in this collection is a rendering of his own take of the world.


The collection is a wonderful and successful study in balance. The shirts are missing all the common details of cuffs and collar. In place of those details, there is texture produced from a brilliant mix of different fibers, from wool to synthetics.



 Georgio Paponi, the father of a classmate produced Van Mol's spectacular shoe collection, which ended up with the Coccodrillo award for the most creative shoe.
In the end, it is Van Mol's simple and unified vision of a world beyond his own that had rendered this immaculate, powerful and articulate collection. Most of all and very rare, this is a poignant collection that speaks of elegant dressing without surrendering youth.   

Quoc Lieu's 3-D Diamonds

It's that time of the year folks, when I am putting together a list of interesting designers for my various buyers from around the world. If you have someone in mind that you want me to check out, drop me an email. But here's one of the first one's on my list this year: Quoc Lieu.

A 2000 Academy of Art University graduate, Lieu took a detour from his background in knits and is making some stellar jewelery. The Brooklyn-based designer has created some fantastic prismatic modern structural pieces that I love.

Just stunning! And the prices are out of this world. So accessible and well priced for something so unique and beautiful.

The Scary Givenchy Van That Came...

Did you hear the story about a scary van that lured innocent fashionistas/os to a secret place and subjected them to much pain (of not being able to afford it)?

You know, the dark scary van...That will take you here...

And force you to look at terrible things...like perfect S/S 10...

A special thanks to the great camera man of RA13 because I was too caught up in the moment to do anything but focus on my breathing.

Alexandra Verschueren's Coats

Alexandra Verschueren is bringing geometry back and making it super chic. I picked these three out-of-this-world coats from her latest collection, hoping that a certain reader of this blog will stock it in her store so I could come and try it on.

That's right, just try it on because you know fashion writers make no money.  But back to the subject at hand: When did math look for good?

Images: Alexandra Verschueren

I want Julia Kim's Airplane Jackets

I am going to be broke guys. Seriously broke and it is all Julia Kim's fault. Just look at her high flying coats. Inspired by the geometric lines of aerial engineering, with an colourful approach that speaks to her education at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. I need to put in an order for one of these coats which will rock the socks of the preening folks at Paris Fashion Week.



Don't you love the jackets. Aren't those airplane panels just perfect?

Images: Julia Kim

Text Twist

I was thinking to myself the other day how I often text more than I actually speak to people. However, since I often must change between three languages, it does get challenging especially when I forget and use short hands from one language in the other.

The Newspaper Ballet Flats

Colin Lin of All Black is my kind of green guy. Pure style, love for the environment, and not sacrificing a bit of chic. While Sea of Shoes is giving old furniture new life, Colin is giving yesterday's news another turn on the town. Check out these ballet flats, handwoven from recycled Chinese language newspapers and then coated to resist rain. 

It takes about three to three and a half pages of newsprint to make a pair. I love it. You need to start making versions for guys Colin! When you do, send me a note and I promise I will snap it right up.

Another thing Colin...I would have called these the Mao flats. Just saying.

 

Johannes Martin for Autumn

I came across Johannes Martin when I was in Austria for the Lifeball. His graduating collection is Matrix meet the proper bad-ass coat you never had as a child. Perfection!

Images: http://johannesmartin.com/

Kelly Cutrone Seeking Skinny Jeans

If Kelly Cutrone ever said to me: "Come with me!"

You know I will drop it all and follow her to the end of Bryant Park and back. I admire her consistency and strength in dealing with fashion people. She has a great concept of branding. Most of all, I love her because she does not put up with bullshit. Go strong women!

While I am not a fan of a hot NYC summer, I do love this video that the fun folks over at Attention PR sent:

You need Konrad Parol in your life!

Konrad Parol, a graduate of Arts Studio, is causing sensation with perfect creations in pure silk, wool and cashmere.

His designs are a study in sleek lines with a strong regard for proportions. His work plays on sexual nature, as seen in the pants above with zippers that give intimate access. Yet at the same time, there is tremendous playfulness.

Take his gladiator sandals, with studs and a strong form, it is a celebration of sexiness and masculinity at the same time. If there was an item I desperately want from his collection, it would be these sandals.
His approach to menswear is refreshing. He disregards the codes and traditions of menswear to produce work that speaks of innovation and daring. I love this tee, for its whimsical play on how t-shirts drape on a man's torso.

Images: Konrad Parol

Karl, Baptiste (Naked), and a Fab Heel!

I am sorry...What? Life is fair? Nope, I don't think so.

Image: Olivier Zahm

Amanda Lepore

With Diane Pernet's period ending, Amanda Lepore will be curating THE SHOP, at NOT JUST A LABEL. Her selection, available from Wednesday 6 August, will once again allow emerging designers to offer their one-off catwalk and exceptionally designed pieces to shoppers in need of something that challenges the homogeneity of the products around us.

Posh's Little Armani...

Emporio Armani will be offering a rendition of the one of a kind Armani dress that Posh wore to the opening of Armani/5th Avenue has arrived. The pink jersey one-shouldered dress with silver crystals will retail for $1695 and be available at Armani/5th Avenue in New York (212-339-5950) and at Emporio Armani in Beverly Hills (310-271-7790).

Vintage America

Nine West just launched the Vintage America Collection and to support the launch the brand has selected singer Miranda Lee Richards as the new label’s brand ambassador. Richards will lead the Vintage America Voices Contest, a talent contest that kicks off today!

Singers can submit an original song and video at YouTube.com/ninewestfashion. Weekly winners will be crowned through Sept. 1, and a panel of judges will select seven finalists and a winner. The panel includes Richards; Fred Allard; Lucky magazine’s merchandising director, Rebecca Babcock, and Danny Strick, co-president of Sony/ATV Music Publishing. The winner will be given the chance to record and release a single through Hickory Records, a division of Sony/ATV Music Publishing.

 

Givechy pour moi

I know that a certain NY Times critic hated the Givenchy collection. Perhap she has something against the designer but who cares. Presenting my latest inspiration, taken backstage at Givenchy:

A bit of Ben (Ben Pollitt that is!)

I am pretty obsessed at the moment with this Ben Pollitt top.

Campanas + LACOSTE

Brazilian design dynamo-brothers, Fernando and Humberto Campana teamed up with Lacoste and the result is the fantastic Campanas + LACOSTE series.

ART: Little People by Slinkachu

Stop for a second.



Captivating, no? Each time I arrive in London, I stare at the group, hoping too see one of Slinkachu's Little People installation.

Captive by Toni Maticevski

While researching Ben Pollitt, I came across Toni Maticevsk's captivating work.

It's a splendid vision, of mythic siren lore and wickedly beautiful things.

 Photography by Justin Ridler

Miharayasuhiro Has my Heart!

Miharayasuhiro's A/H '09.

CAMPAIGN: Emporio Armani A/W 09-10

Emporio Armani A/H 09 by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.

 

 

Chanel Campaign Fall 2009

I keep virtually every magazine I ever touched. You never know when you need to dig up an old editorial to see the inspiration for Chanel's latest campaign...

Hair Collar by Cyberoptix

It all started in Spain when someone showed me a photo of this hair collar:

 

I was freaked out and intrigued. It must be a Margiela runway piece. Think so?

Nope. It's by the American, Detroit-based designer Bethany Shorb. Shorb's label, Cyberoptix, is a breath of fresh air. Within her work are references to Banksy, to early woodcutting and etching techniques so forth...

In other stranger and absolutely wonderful events...Shorb has been "special costume designer and wardrobe for Bai Ling."I don't even know where to go with this, so I checked in with some ladies that have been following Bai Ling for a while.

Ben Pollitt is Love

It spotted Ben Pollitt at the 2009 LMFF Designer Award event. A signature jacket from his label Friedrich Gray made him a stand out in the crowd of "fashionable people."

Images:  Photo by Michele Ferguson for AWI

Know for his layered and deconstructed garments that are both accessible but utterly chic at the same time, Ben is  relative newbie to the fashion circuit.

 He started designing after a brief time in NYC:

"I went and lived in New York for while and saw the creative culture there and what was possible.I got really inspired. I don't have any fashion training - I just know what I want the end product to look like and how it should sit on the body."

His clothing is slender in cut and emphasizes androgyny conducted in hand-finished leather, New Zealand wool and sandwashed silk.

Loden Dager Invites You...

Alexander Galan, one of the designers from the Loden Dager collection, sent out a little love today about their upcoming S/S 09 Sample Sale:

I would go, just to see if I can get my hand on the following three looks, presented for S/S 09 at Bungalow 8:

Barack Obama as Barry from 1980

Evidence that you are born with style.

The year is 1980. Barack Obama is Barry, a freshman at Occidental College in California.

His hair is long, square-cut Hawaiian shirts is the outfit of choice. Lisa Jack caught him as Barry, wearing a bomber jacket, flared jeans, a pack of cigarettes and a Panama hat.

In a first time showing, the exhibit of 36 images are displayed at the M+B Gallery in Los Angeles.

 

 

 

Images: Lisa Jack

Sighs...Jimmy Choo x H&M

Landed in my Inbox a few days ago...

“This autumn, British accessory brand Jimmy Choo will bring its international glamour and covetable shoes and bags to selected H&M stores. The collection will be available from November 14 in around 200 stores across the world. It is the first time that H&M is collaborating with an accessories brand, and to celebrate Jimmy Choo will extend its design vision for this collection to clothing to complement the accessories. ”.

Lovely babies such as these will be offered as part of the collab.

Antwerp Fashion Academy Show 2009

Antwerp is love.And each year, the Antwerp Fashion Academy Show draws some of fashion's brightest eyes. I spotted Suzy Menkes and a certain former designer for Nina Ricci...and so forth.

A few selected menswear pieces...

 

Images: Jeroen.P.VIiser

Bruce, Emma Heming and the Nina Ricci Booties

 Bruce Willis and Emma Heming in a delicious kinky W magazine editorial, shot by Steven Klein.

Image: Steven Klein

Nina Ricci booties. Can't get any better.

NYC Fete: Dance Party Invite with Chuck Bass

From Bloomingdale's and Nylon Magazine with love:

Baptiste Giabiconi: On the Road Leading to Karl

So it looks like Baptiste Giabiconi got his career start/put on the path towards Karl fabness by someone he meet at the gym. She told him to leave Marseille to head off to Paris in search of work/fame. In Paris, you become THE right hand man.  In China,  it often goes very wrong.

UPDATE: Even More Images from the HOT Emporio Armani campaign!!

David Beckham ad campaign for Emporio Armani Underwear Fall/Winter 2009/10.

David Beckham for Emporio Armani Fall Winter 2009

I can't remember what I was suppose to write here...something about David and a big rope...

As America slept, David Beckham had Londoners all hot and bothered on this lovely June day.

He made a personal appearance for the unveiling of the worldwide exclusive of the new Emporio Armani Underwear Fall / Winter 2009-10 campaign at Selfridges Oxford Street in London.

Beckham then met 300 lucky fans who had previously qualified for a VIP meet and greet.

A special thank you to Giorgio Armani Corp.'s PR office for everything!!!!!

Shoulders are the new luxury bag/shoe/bling

Shoulders are my new luxury bag/shoe/bling. I've been obsessing non-stop ever since the Margiela exhibit in Belgium . There is something so alluring about them. I like to consider them as they new great-legs/great-bosom accessories. And this dress is just driving me crazy with desire.

 

Lovely, no? And in completely unrelated news, the editors of Encyclopædia Britannica's blog reads this blog.

A little love from John Bartlett

John Barlett just send a note about his collaboration Claiborne by John Bartlett.

Whenever I think of Clairborne for men, I think of long terrible shopping trips as a child to Macy's, where there were rows of boring suits and stacks of trousers.  I think of frumpy trousers that remind me of sweat pants.

BUT  with a bit of his magic, John has revitalized Claiborne's offerings for men, giving wardrobe stables that are sharp looking and modern without being too "fashionable." Sleek jackets that are perfect for casual date nights. And those flattering and lovely trousers that would layer beautifully under a Lanvin Homme tee.

I know that for many of us, fashion is not fashion until there is  is a bit of Lanvin, tossed in with Rick Owens and a dash of Gareth Pugh. But for many stlylish men who exists outside the world of Vogue, I think John's given them a perfect collection.

 

 

Just call me a convert.

 

LUCKY is throwing a party!

MUSIC + ART + NEIGHBORHOOD = LUCKY BRAND NEIGHBORHOOD SOCIAL

Lucky Jeans is throwing a party!

Where: Santa Monica, California Third Street Promenade Lucky Brand

When: Sunday, June 14th from 3p.m.-7p.m. 

Who/What: Bat for Lashes will perform acoustic versions of her favorite songs; individually hand painted designs by William Lemon III; Blake E. Marquis will be silk screening Lucky reusable tote bags.

For more information and to RSVP for this event go to LuckyBrand.com/events.

Ugly by Marc by Marc Jacobs

While waiting for my friend to show up for lunch, I decided to do a little online vintage shopping. And of course, the usual Dior/D&G/Loub stuff were in abundance. But I saw this hideous beauty that defied all law of nature but...

A beautiful thing like this jacket should never be worn alone...

Yigal Azrouël on eBay!

FYI: Yigal Azrouël and eBay.com will be offering a small selection of Yigal Azrouël women’s and men’s Spring/Summer 2009 at a significantly reduced price. Better said from the eBay.com's official announcement.

"This collaboration represents a continued commitment by eBay to supporting the fashion world. Yigal Azrouël is the latest design superstar to be championed by the online marketplace. By offering this young designer a platform to sell his collection, we will also be giving fashion lovers everywhere the opportunity to purchase designer pieces at great prices while giving back.

 

This variety of looks is from Yigal Azrouël’s women’s and men’s Spring/Summer 2009 collection and a portion of sales will benefit Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC). All pieces will be offered at fixed-prices that are below retail in order to make high-end fashion accessible to eBay’s users while raising money for a charity benefiting environmental causes."

All options and looks available for purchase are below via this link.

And carry me home.

When I win the lottery/marry an oil heir, I will have one each of these chairs.

George Nelson, Edward Wormley, Eero Saarinen, Harry Bertoia, Charles Eames and Jens Risom Playboy Magazine, July 1961.

Designer Crush.

Now that I have a little (very little) time on hand, I am helping a friend put together a lovely exhibit of prints from emerging designers. And of course when you think of print and up and coming designers, Thakoon comes to mind. I'll save you the headache of reading through my ramblings and leave you to hear Thakoon in this ancient interview with Saks.com.

If you don't know Michael Fink and his former enviable job, it doesn't matter. What you should focus on is how awesome/handsome and crush-worthy Thakoon is...Don't you agree?

Peter versus Toby

I am always a fan of moving menswear forward but the guys from Peter versus Toby...Well, it's not for me but it's a good effort.

I do think that it's time for the t-shirt to break from the mild mold. I want more.But well, it makes me wonder if this is the way to go.

Gyarfas Olah for Rozalb de Mura

Gyarfas Olah,the Romanian designer for the Rozalb de Mura label is giving us all many things to think of this Autumn. He is asking men to consider colour and new shapes. It's these new shapes that bother me the most. Flaring sleeves, and tops that hang like dressed.

There is so little construction and attention given to form...

I appreciate the new shapes, I really do. However, I do think that instead of a creative exploration, his collection is forced and is more about making a statement that actual conception of an idea.

Fernando Frisoni, of Maharajas and Warriors

We all know that Rick Owens is my first and true love. If I had the money, I would stock my closet with nothing with Owens but I don't have the money so no Owens for me. In the search for a menswear designer that pratices the cult of drape and power, I came across Fernando Frisoni 2009 collection from Rosemont Australia Fasion Week.

But it's his presentation that I love. There is a strong sense of awareness of the clothing and design philosophy.

While Rick is giving us nuns and mad monks, Frisoni is giving Australia the modern nomad. There is the influence of the mysterious travelers in each of us.

But there is this sense of sensuality and power in his clothing that I cannot forget. Watching the collection, one is caught up in the celebration of the Berber desert warrior and the Maharaja of India.

Images: Getty

Win a Oscar de la Renta Couture Dress

Listen folks, normally I only focus on menswear but I am breaking the rules here because Oscar de la Renta is giving you a chance to win a customized creation made by him just for you (just click the link and enter the contest). Here's more info from my friends over at ideeli.com:

De La Renta Dreams

Once upon a time, one of the world's leading designers created the perfect dress, especially for you. It was feminine, fresh and ultra-flattering, and no other woman in the entire world had one like it. But then you realized this story was just that-a fairytale to fill your dreams. Until now. ideeli is transforming your fantasy into reality.

In an unprecedented collaboration, ideeli has paired up with Oscar de la Renta to give one lucky winner a one-of-a-kind dress designed by the icon himself. With his signature style, Oscar de la Renta captures the essence of modern women in this original creation. Crafted in floral silk faille, this bubble-hemmed cocktail dress embodies the sultry sophistication of the label. Better yet, in addition to this original creation, the winner will receive a sketch of the dress, signed by the designer.

Lanvin Sunnies at 70% Off? What?!!!!!!!!

Oh hell, when Lanvin shades could be had for $69-$99, there is no reason not to protect your baby blues! It's a private invite-only ideeli shooping event. So click here for your invite.

 

David Beckham at Selfridges Oxford Street

Pssssst! London! Armani's PR office just sent a note to say: 

DAVID BECKHAM WILL MAKE AN EXCLUSIVE PERSONAL APPEARANCE AT LONDON’S SELFRIDGES OXFORD STREET AND REVEAL THE NEW FALL/WINTER 2009-10 EMPORIO ARMANI UNDERWEAR CAMPAIGN

June 5th, 2009, Milan - Giorgio Armani is pleased to announce that his friend and international sporting icon David Beckham will reveal the worldwide exclusive of the new Emporio Armani Underwear Fall/Winter 2009-10 campaign on June 11th at Selfridges Oxford Street in London.

On the 3/4...

I am ready for Fall and winter.

Runway looks by Gareth Pugh, D&G, Burberry Prorsum, and John Galliano

Nothing is more elegant and beautiful than a 3/4 length coats, perfect for windy cold autumn days.